{"id":709182,"date":"2026-07-01T08:29:12","date_gmt":"2026-07-01T12:29:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rochester.edu\/newscenter\/?p=709182"},"modified":"2026-07-01T09:05:35","modified_gmt":"2026-07-01T13:05:35","slug":"the-settlement-cook-book-jewish-americans-709182","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rochester.edu\/newscenter\/the-settlement-cook-book-jewish-americans-709182\/","title":{"rendered":"The cookbook that taught generations of Jews how to become American"},"content":{"rendered":"

A new book reveals how The Settlement Cook Book<\/em> became an unlikely guide to immigration, assimilation, memory, and belonging.<\/strong><\/h2>\n

A pinch of curiosity.<\/p>\n

A dash of interest in food and history.<\/p>\n

Heaping spoonfuls of research.<\/p>\n

Combine and let marinate, occasionally stirring, for 14 years.<\/p>\n

This may have been what ultimately led to Nora Rubel<\/a>\u2019s long-awaited new book Recipes for the Melting Pot: The Lives of The Settlement Cook Book<\/em><\/a> (Columbia University Press, 2026). But it wouldn\u2019t make the grade for cooking instructions in the iconic book Rubel profiled\u2014one that would become the most successful charitable cookbook in American history. Every recipe in The Settlement Cook Book<\/em>, which has sold more than two million copies and evolved through more than 40 editions since its 1901 debut, is tested, retested, and standardized using exact measurements and detailed directions.<\/p>\n

This precision helped cement its enduring reputation\u2014a reputation that intrigued Rubel, the 做厙勛圖<\/a>\u2019s Elizabeth Denio Professor in the Department of Religion and Classics<\/a>, as far back as her time in graduate school in the early 2000s.<\/p>\n

In the intervening years, \u201cI did go down quite a few rabbit holes,\u201d admits Rubel, a first-generation American Jew whose scholarship focuses on understanding the religions, identities, and diversity of American Jews. \u201cThe research took twists and turns as I thought about the life stages of this book and how it meant different things to different people.\u201d<\/p>\n

What is the historical significance of The Settlement Cook Book<\/em>?<\/strong><\/h3>\n

\u201cThe significance of The Settlement Cook Book<\/em> is that it emerged out of a period of immigration in an attempt to teach Jews how to become American. Later, it became an icon of American Jewish material culture,\u201d explains Rubel.<\/p>\n

On the surface, The Settlement Cook Book<\/em> is a compendium of recipes with nutrition information, serving procedures, and household management advice. Recipes include \u201c<\/span>Matzos Pancakes\u201d (matzo brei), chicken stroganoff, and banana cream pie. (Its original subtitle, The Way to a Man<\/em>\u2019<\/span>s Heart<\/em>, lasted until the 1970s and reflects the initial target audience: young women and homemakers.)<\/p>\n

But the book also represents deeper themes that Rubel explores in Recipes for the Melting Pot<\/em>. Immigration is one of those themes. In the late 19th century, southern and eastern Europeans came to the United States, and settlement houses emerged to help Jews learn English, prepare for employment, take citizenship classes, and adapt to life in America.<\/p>\n

This period also saw the rise of community cookbooks, a subgenre of cookbooks that were frequently fundraising projects taken up by a group, including women\u2019s and activist groups.<\/p>\n

This is where Lizzie Black Kander comes in.<\/p>\n

Reflecting\u2014and shaping\u2014American Jewish identity<\/h3>\n

Rubel spent a good amount of time learning about the woman who created the original Settlement Cook Book<\/em> based on her kosher cooking classes at the Milwaukee Jewish Mission. Kander, from a middle-class Jewish family, was a go-getter. When the mission\u2019s all-male board denied her request to fund the cookbook\u2019s first print run, she created sponsorships through advertisements and sold out of 2,500 copies by the end of 1902.<\/p>\n

The late 19th century also saw Reform Jews rejecting ritual elements such as kosher dietary laws, preferring to focus on ethical teachings, according to Rubel. The Milwaukee mission\u2019s kitchen, however, kept kosher \u201cso people would feel comfortable coming to the settlement regardless of whether they kept kosher at home,\u201d she explains. Even so, she adds, the women who ran the kitchen did not keep kosher at home, \u201cwhich is why you see all kinds of non-kosher recipes in The Settlement Cook Book<\/em> from the beginning, such as oysters, ham, and frog legs.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s an understanding that there are certain foods that are seen as Jewish, even if they just became Jewish in the United States. Like bagels and pickles.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

The cookbook changed over time as the Jewish community in America evolved.<\/p>\n

\u201cJewish food becomes a very big part of cultural Jewish identity when people become less affiliated with religious institutions,\u201d Rubel says. \u201cThere\u2019s an understanding that there are certain foods that are seen as Jewish, even if they just became Jewish in the United States. Like bagels and pickles\u2014they\u2019re not necessarily Jewish in Europe, but they become Jewish here.\u201d<\/p>\n

These days, pickles are having a moment\u2014so much so that Rubel joked that \u201cit\u2019s possible we\u2019ve hit peak pickle<\/a>.\u201d<\/p>\n

Foods that have become associated with Jewish identity point to a larger truth about migration and memory, shares Rubel. She points out that people lose things when they move to new places\u2014either by choice or circumstance\u2014and \u201cfood is one of the things that continues to linger in memory.\u201d While Jews aren’t exceptional in this regard, she notes, they do have a full calendar of holidays and observances closely tied to food, including the weekly Shabbat.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s such a connection between smell and memory and pleasure when it comes to food,\u201d Rubel says. \u201cThere’s so much joy there.\u201d<\/p>\n

More than food for thought<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Aside from working on Recipes for the Melting Pot<\/em> at several writing retreats, Rubel wrote the book mostly from a comfortable, well-lit home office she fashioned from \u201ca glorified storage space\u201d during Covid. (Most importantly, the room is a respectable distance from the television and coffee maker.)<\/p>\n

In 2012, she submitted the proposal to the publisher. During the intervening years until the book\u2019s recent release, Rubel let it simmer on the back burner, so to speak\u2014working as a full-time professor, starting and raising a family, serving as director of the Susan B. Anthony Institute for Gender, Sexuality, and Women\u2019s Studies<\/a>, and chairing the Department of Religion and Classics.<\/p>\n

As co-owner of Grass Fed, Rochester\u2019s first vegan butchery, Rubel brings more than a scholarly interest to the subject of food. In fact, she once wanted to write a cookbook, but the project took a backseat to the aforementioned academic pursuits, including authoring Doubting the Devout: The Ultra-Orthodox in the Jewish American Imagination<\/em><\/a> (2009) and coediting Religion, Food, and Eating in North America<\/em><\/a> (2014), both published by Columbia University Press.<\/p>\n

She recalls: \u201cI thought, \u2018Alright, I have other things I could be doing right now. I’ll come back to this.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

Some ideas need time to marinate.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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